Ancora una recensione di Barolo Boys

E con i primi caldi non spuntano certo i funghi, ma le recensioni di Barolo Boys / the movie quelle sì. Eccone una pubblicata da MiVini, che contiene un’interessante citazione di Angelo Gaja: “”Non è che i produttori del Piemonte siano chiusi all’innovazione, assai più che in altre regioni molti di loro avvertono la forte necessità di integrarla con la tradizione procedendo per prove, passo dopo passo, senza strappo, con prudenza; mentre altri che non sentono questa necessità continuano a produrre i vini che amano di più”. “

dal sito MiVini

Barolo Boys: storia di una rivoluzione 

Nel bel mezzo dei primi veri giorni d’estate ci siamo imbattuti in un interessante documentario del 2014 diretto da Paolo Casalis e Tiziano Gaia, che racconta la fantastica storia di un gruppo di giovani produttori che a cavallo fra gli anni ’80 e ’90, attraverso scelte ritenute rivoluzionarie e tanta voglia di emergere, contribuirono a fare grande il Barolo e le Langhe rendendo vino e territorio attraenti agli occhi del mondo intero.
È la storia di Elio Altare e altri amici produttori che intrapresero nuove strade per cercare una sorta di ribalta dopo le frustrazioni derivanti dalle condizioni economiche e dalle incomprensioni con i padri padroni.
La “revolution” dei Barolo Boys passa senza alcun dubbio da importanti innovazioni tecniche ed enologiche, ma anche da nuove strategie in campo di marketing e nel settore commerciale, queste ultime guidate con abilità e astuzia da Marco de Grazia, importatore americano che permise ai giovani produttori di affermarsi in maniera decisiva negli Stati Uniti, ottenendo grande considerazione e smisurato affetto.
Per questi giovani pionieri la barrique divenne quasi una religione, cosa che non tutti digerirono, soprattutto alcuni storici produttori fedeli da sempre alle antiche tradizione della Langa.
Da una parte Elio Altare con le posizioni dei Barolo Boys, dall’altra la fermezza di Bartolo Mascarello, icona del Barolo e fermo contestatore della barrique. Il primo importatore di metodologie studiate e recepite nel viaggio in Borgogna del 1976, il secondo legato ai valori della tradizione in chiave futura.
Ancora oggi la crescita delle Langhe in particolare del Barolo è una contesa ideologica tra modernisti e tradizionalisti che scalda gli animi di produttori, critica, importatori, wine lovers, ecc…
Uno sguardo attento su questo intricato scenario ci piace ritrovarlo nelle parole di Angelo Gaja riportate nel volume “Storie di vino e cucina” edito da Mondadori, nel quale parla così dei suoi corregionali: “Non è che i produttori del Piemonte siano chiusi all’innovazione, assai più che in altre regioni molti di loro avvertono la forte necessità di integrarla con la tradizione procedendo per prove, passo dopo passo, senza strappo, con prudenza; mentre altri che non sentono questa necessità continuano a produrre i vini che amano di più”.
Insomma un documentario consigliato a tutti i curiosi del mondo del vino, agli innamorati degli straordinari panorami delle Langhe e dei suoi principali prodotti.
Al termine della proiezione sarebbe stato il caso di bere un buona annata di Barolo firmato dai tradizionalisti ed una dai modernisti, anzi magari due per tipo. Ci sarà tempo e modo di farlo, sapremo rendervene conto, intanto auguriamo buon visione a chi sceglierà di gustarsi questa pellicola.
Info: è possibile vedere il film in streaming (http://www.baroloboysthemovie.com) o scaricarlo direttamnte da Itunes, come abbiamo fatto noi.

 

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Barolo Boys: The Power & Effects of International Wine Marketing

from UncorkedinItaly.com

“Barolo Boys” (2014) is a documentary about the Barolo “boom” in the nineties. The strength of the film is its success in chronicling how a group of family owned wineries (7 men + 1 woman)* changed the historical character of their wines for marketing purposes and what happened as a result. The story is important because versions of it occurred in many other parts of Italy. The echoes can still be heard today.

*Elio Altare, Chiara Boschs of E. Pira e Figli, Giorgio Rivetti of La Spinetta, Roberto Voerzio, Luciano Sandrone, Domenico Clerico, Giovanni Manzone, Enrico Scavino of Paolo Scavino, Renato Cigliuti and Roberto Damonte of Malvirà

What happened?
The Barolo Boys altered their methods in the vineyard and in the cellar to catch and ride a wave of stratospheric Parker/Wine Spectator point scores. Italo-American marketing expert, Marco De Grazia, took the group on tour in the United States and brought new wealth to them and to the area. But all of that had consequences in the community and provoked a counter movement toward “traditional” Barolo wine.

To Buy or Rent or on iTunes

As background to the film, it’s important to know that the United States was the fastest growing, largest and richest market for wine in the 80s and 90s. Robert Parker’s 100-point scale, which spread to the Wine Spectator and other publications, fueled sales based on Parker’s personal preference for fruit forward, robust, ready to drink reds. His palate aligned with that of most Americans.

So how do you get Nebbiolo wine, which has traditionally been highly tannic and austere with a need for long aging in the cellar, to score 100 points?

Answer:
– Prune bunches off the vines to concentrate their efforts on fewer grapes
(Create intensity of aroma and flavor)
– Allow the grapes to mature longer on the vine
(Add fruitiness, roundness and higher sugar content–higher alcohol)
– Shorten the period that fermenting wine remains with the skins
(Reduce tannins for less austerity)
– Use new barriques (small, French, wood barrels)
(Soften tannins and add aromas and flavors, like vanilla)
– Use additives, commercial yeasts, etc. to change the wine chemically in the cellar.
(All of the above)

The original group ranged from small to large producers (4,500-450,000 bottles annually). What they had in common was a feeling of frustration at working so hard to grow grapes but then, having to sell them in bulk at low prices or produce wines that were not recognized beyond the local area.

The film recounts both the rise of these “modernists” and the reaction that eventually rose up against them from the “traditionalists” like Giuseppe Rinaldi and Bartolo Mascarello, who made a label for his wine that revealed his thoughts on the matter. Whichever side people aligned with, it was clear that one effect of the Barolo Boys was a rift in the community.
No Barrique

The Barolo Boys’ boom also led to a gold rush where land prices skyrocketed and vines proliferated where once there had been woods, fruit trees, hazelnut trees, grain, grazing pastures and other crops. The monoculture that exists today has fundamentally changed the character of the area, reduced the health of the vines, and reduced the variety of aromas and flavors in the grapes.

monoculture

Many vines are grown with industrial methods (herbicides, insecticides, fungicides, fertilizers, etc.) and are heavily pruned to force the plant to concentrate efforts on the grapes. On a recent walk through vineyards above Barolo (castle in background), I took this photo.

conventional

Interestingly, some of the Barolo Boys wineries are following the market once again and leaving their “modern” methods in favor of a new marketing trend toward more authentic, terroir based, “natural” wines. The group no longer exists as such, and Marco De Grazia has moved to Mount Etna.

It is notable that some winegrowers in the area (and in other parts of Italy) never changed. They stayed with traditional, sustainable, “natural” mentors in the vineyard and in the cellar. (See winegrowers on this blog…and more stories coming soon from Piemonte!)

They plant only a small part of their acreage…
vines with woods

Allow all kinds of flora and fauna to grow in the vineyards…
eugenio

flowers

Allow their vines to find their own equilibrium by not pruning the tops or conducting heavy pruning of bunches.
happy vines

And intervene as little as possible in the cellar.

The fascination of Italy remains the natural diversity of land, climate, soil, altitude, exposition, grape variety and winegrower personality. Wine has been made here for over 3,000 years and is deeply rooted in the culture, a fact that no point score or ranking can easily change.

Published: June 22, 2016

For more information on Barolo wineries or on planning a trip to the area,contact Eleanor.

Barolo Boys – historia winiarskiej rewolucji

You don’t understand it? it’s Polish!

Nie przegap nowości od Kuchnia+. Subskrybuj nasz kanał na YouTube https://goo.gl/Bu0b9B

Langhe, piękny region w północno-zachodnich Włoszech. To właśnie stąd pochodzi jedno z najbardziej rozpoznawalnych włoskich win – Barolo. Poznaj historię tego unikalnego trunku!

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Oglądaj najnowsze programy w Kuchnia+.

Cinema Paradiso: A selection of films from CineFesta Italia

BAROLO BOYS: THE STORY OF A REVOLUTION

Documentary, not rated, 64 minutes, in English and Italian with subtitles, 2 p.m. Saturday, June 4, Jean Cocteau Cinema, 3 chiles

What is identity? asks this 2014 film about one of the great wine success stories of the last century. Barolo wine took the international wine stage by storm in the 1980s and ’90s. This affectionately told story from directors Paolo Casalis and Tiziano Gaia focuses on the “Barolo boys,” a handful of Nebbiolo grape-growers who set off a wave of technical innovations in winemaking techniques starting in the 1970s. Filmed in the lush Langhe region, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and featuring intermittent visits by a brass band, which marches up and down the vineyards trumpeting the enormous pride of these winemakers, the film is irreverent and breezy in classic Italian fashion, with a somewhat meandering narrative that sometimes falters. Still, passion and dedication shine through in interviews with vintners like Elio Altare, an iconoclast who had the vision to deviate from established methods and thus kicked off a revolution in winemaking. As one subject in the film puts it, “We had the power to change things, which is the best thing you can have in life.” — M.B.

How a tiny Italian village revolutionised the world of wine

from DocSupper.com

Barolo is delightful little medieval hamlet in Piedmont’s beautiful Langhe wine region in the North West of Italy. It’s also the site of one of the most remarkable food revolutions of the 21st Century.

In the 1980s, Barolo wines weren’t recognized internationally. The wines were known to age beautifully, but couldn’t be enjoyed in their youth as the tannins were so strong. Wine makers lacked capital to buy tractors and other critical tools, and winemaking techniques weren’t up to modern standards of cleanliness as a result.

A group of local wine makers decided a revolution was needed.

This group became known as the ‘Barolo boys’, completely transforming the world of Barolo wine and winemaking more broadly. Their story is a story of the clash between tradition and modern innovation.

Elio Altare

Revolutions start when bellies are empty- Elio Altare (Wine and Revolution Maker)

The Barolo Boys

Barolo Boys the documentary explores this revolution, the positives and the negatives. It also tells the personal story behind the scenes – a tale of friendship and spirit of the people behind the transformation and the resulting success.

Join DOC:Supper on the 28th of April (from 7.30 pm) to watch Barolo Boys @ The Proud Archivist in Haggerston.

Get your ticket here and secure your seat.

Proiezione a Travedona

dal blog di Ivano Antonini

Bellissimo evento quello che si è svolto nel tardo pomeriggio di ieri al cine-teatro Santamanzio di Travedona.
Alle ore 17:00 c’è stata la proiezione del film Barolo Boys-Storia di una rivoluzione, dove il regista Paolo Casalis è riuscito a concentrare in 64 minuti più di trent’anni di storia del Barolo, dando voce ai protagonisti “attivi” ma anche “passivi” di questa rivoluzione, con una chiave di lettura attenta, dinamica, incisiva e mai sopra le righe.
In seguito ci siamo divertiti con l’assaggio di tre Barolo frutto di stili e di annate diverse. Abbiamo cominciato con il calore e l’avvolgenza del San Lorenzo di Verduno 2011 dei Fratelli Alessandria, abbiamo continuato con la forza e la potenza della 2006 di Elio Altare e chiuso con la grazia e la suadente della 2002 di Chiara Boschis. Grinta e tenacia con tantissima eleganza in un vino frutto di un’annata non facile.

Barolo boys or, simply, boys

from fabiodellamarta.com

I don’t wont to take part in this struggle because, you’ve to know, it’s a struggle between two sides. When I was a child, I was with the cow boys against Sioux, I was with Mickey Mouse against the Beagle Boys. Now that I’m older, just a little bit, probably I’ll have a chance to understand that borders are often smooth and made to be broken.

I don’t wont to take part in this struggle, I don’t really know if barolo history has been made by the “olds” with the big barrel or by the “youngs” with the barrique, by the fathers of the “big quantity” or by the “sons” who cut the grapes and leave them fall on the ground. Probably history, as history itself would be able to explain, take origin from a synthesis…and a synhtesis is always full of pain.

Neverthless I can’t stop to be fascinated, I can say this without any kind of fear, by Elio Altare’s words. I can’t stop to be fascinated by that age, that strain, that “affronto” as he defined it in the movie. And I don’t absolutely care if his barolo is better than his father’s one, or not. What is important for me is wine, that once more tells us about life, about times, about evolution. Our evolution.

So Barolo Boys simply were what we all were one time ago. What we were in that wonderful and painful moment when we had to decide to leave our house our nest and to fly, to live. When we had do decide what to do and what to be.

Because, as I often said to myself, to leave and to change, doesn’t not mean to abandon or to repudiate. And I think there are only two ways to die: not moving or moving without having inside what others before us teached to us.

So, probably, before “Barolo Boys” they were, simply, boys.

El cinquè Most Festival premia el documental «Barolo Boys»

La cinquena edició el Most. Penedès Festival Internacional de Cinema del Vi i el Cava, organitzat pel Vinseum (Museu de les Cultures del Vi de Catalunya) i el Cine Club Vilafranca, s’acomiadava aquest diumenge. Com cada any, el festival ha mostrat una acurada selecció de les millors peces audiovisuals relacionades amb el món de la vinya, el vi i el cava a Vilafranca, Sant Sadurní i a d’altres indrets del Penedès.

La preestrena de Barcelona, nit d’hivern, de Dani de la Orden, el darrer 5 de novembre, donava el tret de sortida al certamen, que avui ha clausurat La novia, una adaptació al cinema de Bodas de sangre de García Lorca. El palmarès de la secció Collita està encapçalat pel documental italià Barolo Boys. Storia di una Rivoluzione, de Paolo Casalis, reconegut amb el Gran Premi del Jurat, dotat amb 1.000 euros, i amb el Premi Projecció Internacional.

El film és un relat engrescador sobre la revolució col·lectiva d’un grup de joves vinaters de la regió italiana de Langhe que, amb orgull i passió, passen de l’autoproducció a consolidar els vins de Barolo, una denominació d’origen admirada arreu del món. La secció oficial del certamen, centrada en la producció audiovisual sobre la vinya i el vi, ha projectat enguany 21 treballs de països com Itàlia, Suïssa, França, Xile i Estats Units.

Un palmarès repartit

El jurat, integrat per Xavi Ayala (sommelier), Anna Espelt (elaboradora), Carlos R. Ríos (director del festival D’A), Gemma Ferraté (directora de cinema) i Maria Antònia Rovira (agent d’actors) també ha reconegut amb una Menció especial en la categoria de Millor projecció internacional la producció Chasselas forever, dirigida per Florian Burion.

El Premi al millor treball documental ha estat per Beudon – La terre, l’homme et la vigne, dirigit per Christian Laubacher i Delphine Schacher, i el Premi al millor treball de ficció ha reconegut Vinodentro, de Ferdinando Vicentini Orgnani. El Premi Arrels al millor treball lligat al territori se l’ha endut À la source du vin, de Philippe Gasnier, i Premi al millor treball promocional L’Olivera Únic: no beuràs mai res igual, dirigit per Marc Saludes.

El palmarès de la secció Brot, la mostra de curtmetratges, està encapçalat per Ser e voltar, de Xacio Baño, Premi del Jurat al Millor Curtmetratge. El jurat, integrat per Anna Petrus (crítica de cinema), Roger Casamajor (actor) i Maria Olivella (exhibidora), ha volgut fer també una menció especial a Caradecaballo, de Marc Martínez. El públic ha premiat Playback, de Nico Aguerre, i el Jurat jove, Walls, dirigit per Miguel López Beraza.

Palmarès de la Secció Collita 2015

Gran Premi del Jurat
Barolo Boys. Storia di una Rivoluzione, Paolo Casalis

Premi millor treball de Ficció
Vinodentro, dirigit per Ferdinando Vicentini Orgnani

Premi al Millor Treball Documental
Beudon – La terre, l’homme et la vigne, dirigit per Christian Laubacher i Delphine Schacher

Premi Arrels
À la source du vin, dirigit per Philippe Gasnier

Premi a la Millor Projecció Internacional
Barolo Boys. Storia di una Rivoluzione, dirigit per Paolo Casalis

Menció d’Honor a Projecció Internacional
Chasselas forever, dirigit per Florian Burion

Premi al Millor Treball Promocional
L’Olivera Únic: no beuràs mai res igual, dirigit per Marc Saludes

Palmarès de la secció Brot 2015

Premi al Millor curtmetratge
Ser e voltar, dirigit per Xacio Baño

Menció Especial al Curtmetratge
Caradecaballo, dirigit per Marc Martínez

Premi del Públic al Millor Curtmetratge
Playback, dirigit per Nico Aguerre

Premi del Jurat al Millor Curtmetratge
Walls, dirigit per Miguel López Beraza

Barolo Boys vince il Most Film Festival 2015!

Si è appena concluso a Vilafranca del Penedes, a pochi chilometri da Barcellona, il MOST, Festival Internazionale di Cinema e Vino. Il documentario “Barolo Boys. Storia di una Rivoluzione” (http://www.baroloboysthemovie.com/) è stato il dominatore di questa edizione, aggiudicandosi due premi: il Gran Premio della Giuria, premio principale del Festival, ed il Premio alla Miglior Produzione Internazionale.

The 5th edition of Most, International Festival of Wine&Film, in Vilafranca del Penedes (Barcelona) has closed sunday. Our documentary“Barolo Boys. The Story of a Revolution” (http://www.baroloboysthemovie.com/index_eng.html) was the absolute winner of this edition, conquering the “Gran premi del Jurat” and the “Award for Best International Production”.

We would like to thank the Festival’s organization and crew.


Di seguito, il comunicato stampa del Festival:
Below, the Festival’s note:

El documental “Barolo Boys. Storia di una Rivoluzione”, de Paolo Casalis y Tiziano Gaia, guanya el Gran Premi del Jurat del 5è Most Festival

La treball italià també s’ha fet amb el Premi Projecció Internacional

Avui ha acomiadat la seva cinquena edició el Most. Penedès Festival Internacional de Cinema del Vi i el Cava, organitzat pel Vinseum (Museu de les Cultures del Vi de Catalunya) i el Cine Club Vilafranca. Com cada any, el festival ha mostrat una acurada selecció de les millors peces audiovisuals relacionades amb el món de la vinya, el vi i el cava a Vilafranca, Sant Sadurní i a d’altres indrets del Penedès.

El palmarès de la secció Collita està encapçalat pel documental italià “Barolo Boys. Storia di una Rivoluzione”, de Paolo Casalis, reconegut amb el Gran Premi del Jurat, dotat amb 1.000 euros, i amb el Premi Projecció Internacional. Un relat engrescador sobre la revolució col·lectiva d’un grup de joves vinaters de la regió italiana de Langhe que, amb orgull i passió, passen de l’autoproducció a consolidar els vins de Barolo, una denominació d’origen admirada arreu del món. La secció oficial del certamen, centrada en la producció audiovisual sobre la vinya i el vi, ha projectat enguany 21 treballs de països com Itàlia, Suïssa, França, Xile i Estats Units.
per info sul film: www.baroloboysthemovie.comguarda le altre produzioni Stuffilm sul sito http://www.stuffilm.com/

Barolo Boys film review from Vineous

Barolo Boys – film review

Around 1980 I was on a budget holiday in Northern Italy, where most meals were bread, cheese and ham picnics.  However, one evening we pushed the boat out and went to a proper (albeit cheap) restaurant.  I remember we ordered a bottle of Barolo and, even though I had little interest in wine in those days, I can still conjure up a vivid image of how it tasted: brown, tannic, and totally devoid of fruit.  Today I would probably send it back, and I did consider it back then.  But of course we drank the bottle, even though it gave no pleasure.

That must have been an example of the wine that prompted the modernist revolution in Barolo.  It was the style of wine that sold for little money and kept the wine growers in poverty, as described in Barolo Boys, The Story of a Revolution.  But then how does it relate to the great traditional Barolo wines that, in the same documentary, David Berry Green said were so fantastic?  Ultimately I am still left a little confused about what the situation was before the revolution, and how it relates to the current state of affairs.  However, it seems that the quality of Barolo has been raised generally, irrespective of whether the traditionalist or modernist tag is applied. Are the Barolo Boys to thank for that?  Regardless, it must be seen as a good thing.

The Barolo Boys were a group of producers who introduced crop thinning, shorter maceration times and barrique aging, thus making the wines more appealing to consumers and critics alike, and allowing them to sell for a lot more money. The film tells this story through interviews with the people involved, and through archive clips.  However nice it was to meet the people, learn a bit about their culture and see the landscape, I am not convinced that is the best way to understand a story, but I cannot deny that I did learn quite a bit.

I am a little ashamed to admit that I used to think that the Barolo Boys was just the name of the winemakers’ football team.  Though it is that too, and the football team even featured in the film.  The other surprise was to see the documentary’s Langhe landscapes suddenly switch to the volcanic Mount Etna and Marco de Grazia.  I know about Marco – he is the guy that is currently busy raising the profile of Etna wines.  But what’s he got to do with Barolo? Ah, I see… before he arrived in Sicily he encouraged the Barolo revolution, introduced the Barolo Boys to America, and imported their wines.  In fact, it was on the American tour organised by him that their name was coined.

Interestingly, the booklet that accompanies the DVD mentions that in the early 19th century Nebbiolo was used to make a wine that was semi-sweet and slightly fizzy.  But the landowners wanted something better, so experts were called in to introduce the latest winemaking techniques.  Does that sound familiar? Terms like traditional and modern are, if they have any meaning at all, relative terms.  My only concern about change, particularly with modern communications, is that stylistic choice in the world of wine might get diminished. That might be a real danger in some cases, but I would say today’s Barolo remains distinctive. And if you want red wine in the early 19th century style, you can still get that from the region, in the form of Bracchetto d’Aqui. Has much really been lost?

If you are interested enough to read my blog, I think there is something in this documentary for you. DVDs of Barolo Boys, The Story of a Revolution are available here, along with further information. That is where I bought my copy. But be warned – the homepage is a badly-executed multimedia extravaganza, so you will probably want to turn your computer sound off.  If you want to see the trailer, you’d do better accessing it on Vimeo directly, by clicking on the above image for example.

Update 03/2016: I was recently talking to a Barolo expert (but not sure he would want to be quoted on this), who said that before the revolution the general standard was poor. But there were a few producers making good age-worthy wine that sold for more money than most, and that David Berry Green was probably mainly thinking of one in particular that he had an involvement with.